Winery in Focus - Coldstream Hills

Directions

Vigneron, author, wine judge, and worthy recipient of the Order of the Bountiful Eyebrow, James Halliday , is Australia’s most respected wine commentator. Such is his cachet, that even now–a good 20 years after his retirement from winemaking–his name is still synonymous with the Yarra Valley winery he founded.

Yarra Valley

YV has had a chequered viticultural history. A boom in the mid to late 1800s was all over by the 1920s - thanks to Australia’s passion for fortified wines (for which the region was completely unsuited). So, cows ruled the Valley until a second wave of pioneers arrived in the 1960s - sparking a wineaissance and laying the foundations of the premium cool-climate wine region we know today. Yarra Valley greatness first thrust itself onto James Halliday in the form of the Burgundian-style Pinots Noir produced by Mount Mary and Seville Estate. Though still practicing law fulltime, James was deeply immersed in the wine industry: co-founding Brokenwood Estate in the Hunter Valley; and authoring several books. Researching his “Wines and Wineries of Victoria”, James visited Yarra Valley and was immediately and utterly besotted. When his law firm decided to expand into Melbourne, James seized the opportunity to be closer to the region he loved. 

It’s all in the Timing

With magnificent serendipity, James’ wife, Suzanne heard from a friend about a property for sale in the Yarra Valley. James enlisted wine scientist buddy, Tony Jordan, to help him assess the site. After a few days’ deliberation, Tony called James to advise him against the purchase: too steep, too expensive to develop, too risky. Too late. By December that year, the vines were in.

A Winner

Pinot Noir is a notoriously fickle variety, and to make good Pinot Noir wine is always challenging. But the cool climate, the unique terroir of the steeply sloping site and James’ meticulous attention to detail proved to be a winning combo. Coldstream Hills quickly became one of the most successful and highly awarded small wineries in the country.

New (Old) Guard and Single Vineyards

Since 2001 winemaking has been in the capable hands of Andrew Fleming and Greg Jarratt - though Halliday’s original philosophy of purity, elegance and finesse showcasing regionality underpins their approach. There’s a much-extended range that profiles fruit from a variety of Yarra Valley sites - and a particular focus on local terroirs with the Single Vineyards range of wines. Mr Halliday remains reassuringly close, and the team continues to seek out his feedback. When those mighty eyebrows suddenly arch heavenwards, they know they’re on a winner.