Port

Port

Directions

PORT

In many ways, we can thank the persistent bickering between France and England for introducing this delicious libation to the world. When William III imposed punishing tax imposts on French wine in 1693, English merchants were forced to shop elsewhere. Turning to Portugal, where they’d always enjoyed good relations, they found dark, powerful and astringent reds, which they dosed up with a measure of brandy to stabilize for the journey back to England. Thirsty Londoners dubbed these densely alcoholic Portuguese wines Blackstrap. They were a far cry from the sweet delights we know today.

MOUNTAIN MONKS

It wasn’t until a particularly intrepid Liverpudlian trader ventured to a Cistercian monastery high in the mountains above the Douro River, that the world learned of a sublimely sweet, highly alcoholic red wine that the good monks had perfected. The difference was that they added their brandy during fermentation, rather than after it – killing the active yeasts, and stopping the ferment while there was still sugar in the wine. The sweetness of the grape spirit doubled down on the natural sweetness of the wine, resulting in the luscious, fiery fortified that came to be named for the city of Porto from which it would ship to an eager world. Today, delicious fortifieds made in this style are produced all across the world, including some spectacular examples here in Australia, but by EU law, only those that come from a closely defined area in the Douro Valley of northern Portugal, can claim the name of Port. Very broadly, there are two categories of Port: Wood Aged and Bottle Aged – each with a number of different styles in their class.

WOOD AGED PORT

Wood matured ports are aged in casks for varying periods of time, before being fined, filtered and bottled. Once bottled, they’re ready to drink. (That is, they won’t improve any further in the bottle). Wood Ports include Ruby, Reserva and Tawny Ports – all simple, fruit-forward blends, often bulk-aged for two to three years before bottling. They show varying degrees of colour intensity and depth of character, from the youthful red Rubies to slightly more complex Reservas, and lighter-hued Tawnies. Aged Tawnies are the real deal: made from high-quality wines, they’re matured in small wooden casks for six or more years. As their colour fades from deep red to an amber-tawny hue, delicate, nutty flavours emerge, and soft, silky characters develop. Whereas Aged Tawnies may be blended from a range of vintages, Colheita (meaning ‘harvest’ in Portuguese) are produced from a single vintage. Then they’re aged for a minimum of seven years, where they take on all the delicious nuances of an Aged Tawny, while also expressing the unique characters of a single year.

BOTTLE AGED PORT

Only the very best grapes from the very best sites, harvested at optimum ripeness in a single vintage year are destined to become Vintage Port – but even then, it’s no shoo-in. A year after harvest, the characteristics of the wine – and the readiness of the market – are appraised. Then – provided the Douro Port Wine Institute (IVDP) gives it the seal of approval – a vintage might be declared. Vintages can be irregular, but on average, there are just three vintage declarations in every decade. VP spends two to three years in wood, before being blended and bottled (without filtration). But Vintage Port lovers need vast reserves of patience. These wines can take up to 20 years to shrug off a mute adolescence, before blossoming into delicious maturity at 40 or so. There are a number of variations on the Vintage Port theme, including Single-Quinta Vintage (Single vineyard); LBV (Late Bottled Vintage) – which spends additional years on oak before bottling; Crusted Port (not actually a vintage port, but a bottle-aged blend that throws a sediment, or crust); and Garrafeira – a vintage port aged in 5 or 10 litre glass demijohns for anything up to 40 years, before being decanted off its sediment into standard 750 mL bottles.

IMPORTANT: NOT PORT

Here in Australia, we rightly stopped referring to our fortifieds as ‘Port’ some years ago. (Although you’ve gotta feel for the good people at Saltram: their delightful Mr Pickwick’s Particular Port went from being deliciously alliterative to merely delicious overnight). Okay, so we don’t make Port, but we do have a rare talent for Tawnies, Aged Tawnies, and Vintage Fortifieds. And what is winter for, if not indulging this most tantalising tipple?

Savour your lusciously non-alliterative Tawny with pecorino and a handful of dried fruit, or chill it slightly and team it up with pecan pie, chocolate tart, or apple crumble and vanilla ice-cream. Your Vintage Fortified will steamroller mild cheeses, so get out the Stilton, Roquefort or Gorgonzola and start cracking the walnuts. Oh, and throw another log on the fire...

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