‘Other’ Whites - Viognier

Directions

THE OTHERS

Don’t be nervous. We’re not talking about that scary 2001 film starring Nicole Kidman and the two creepy kids (it was uncommonly frightening, and not just for the acting).

We’re referring to that curious classification at the end of the wine list that is so frequently overlooked. Not currently popular, or not sufficiently well-known to warrant a category of their own, these wines are lumped together – rather unimaginatively – as Others. But look closely. Here are outliers, mavericks, rare and exotic varieties, the stars of tomorrow, and yesterday’s heroes (note to Sauv Blanc: even the highest of flyers can fall from fashion!) – an intriguing grab bag of vinous delights. Some on the verge of greatness; others returning from the brink of extinction…

VIOGNIER

Its precise origins are unclear, but – since Roman times at least – Viognier has been happily ensconced in the northern Rhône appellation of Condrieu, where it’s a treat em mean, keep em keen kind of scenario. Vineyards here are small, steep, and stony – and when the wind howls down from the north, it can strip the flowers and young berries clean off your vine. Yet Viognier sets its roots deep into the narrow terraces of decomposed granite and mica – and hangs on. You might expect that such a challenging existence would result in a mean-spirited, acidic little wine – but there isn’t a mean bone in Viognier’s body. OK, it’s a grape - no bones at all. But boy, is there body – lush and unctuous – and a heady, aromatic perfume to boot.

DEMANDING

The Nigella Lawson of wine is voluptuous and flamboyant, with a distinctive perfume of white flowers and stone fruit (often apricot). And, because it needs to be left long on the vine to develop those extraordinary aromas, it’s inclined to have a correspondingly high level of alcohol (13% - 15% abv – as opposed to, say, 10% - 12% for Riesling). It can be vinified sweet, as a dessert style, or dry – where it still retains intriguing notes of honeysuckle and ginger, while maintaining a savoury, citrus palate. In Condrieu’s neighbouring appellation, Côte Rôtie, a soupçon of Viognier is added to Syrah, to enhance body and texture.

Surprisingly though, this gorgeous wine is unlikely to ever become your favourite after-work tipple. In fact, it’s really not a great aperitif style at all. Viognier loves food: it positively demands a meal – and can partner an impressively wide range of dishes. Ditch the Chardy with your roast chicken; flick the Fiano if you’re having smoked trout. Viognier will complement them both – and bring a little extra to the table too. It’ll partner rich shellfish dishes, roast pork, fruity chicken (or lamb) tagine, and it handles spice magnificently. Give it a crack with creamy curries or even a spicy Beef Rendang. With its assertive flavours, palate weight and texture, Viognier is often referred to as a white wine for red wine drinkers.

BACK FROM THE BRINK

It’s hard to believe that such a unique and feted wine could possibly disappear from the surface of the planet – and yet it almost did. Fragrant Viognier was a favourite of pre-revolutionary Parisians, but soon became a victim of its own exclusivity. When low-yielding Viognier was too difficult for the hedonists of Paris to obtain, they simply turned their attention to other Rhône whites, such as Marsanne and Roussanne. The fall from grace was rapid and profound. By the mid 20th century, fewer than 14 hectares – by official count – of Viognier remained.

But interest from New World producers in the 1970s sparked a timely resurgence. In the Rhône Valley, throughout Europe, and across the New World, plantings of this distinctive variety steadily, inexorably increased. Today, Viognier is thriving in Austria, Switzerland, and Italy (where it’s often blended with Chardonnay); in South Africa, Chile, Argentina, and the US (particularly in California, which has the world’s second-largest planting of the variety). Here at home, Aussie winemakers love experimenting with Viognier’s unique qualities, creating dry styles (of which Yalumba is a pioneer), and fabulous dessert wines, such as Penfold’s sweet and luscious Cellar Reserve Viognier. They even had fun boosting the sex appeal of Aussie Shiraz with a dollop of Viognier, à la Côte Rôtie.