Wine Matching: the Christmas Pud
Directions
Magic Pudding
At the time of writing, WineDown is waiting for the Christmas pud to cook. A ton and a half of fruit and nuts have been roughly chopped; suet, flour, sugar and spices mixed; grated carrot, apple and ginger added; beaten eggs and brandy have been most generously ladled in. The sixpences and threepences have been scalded to sterilise, then wrapped in brown paper and dropped into the batter with wishes attached. And the whole fragrant, gluey mess has been wrapped in calico, tied firmly with string, and lowered into a stockpot of boiling water, where it will remain for the next 6 hours.
On Christmas Day, it will be boiled again for an hour, then tenderly stripped of its calico cloth, and doused in flaming brandy. The family - despite being stuffed to the gills - will magically find room for a slab of steaming hot, dark and aromatic Chrissie Pud, with custard and/or ice cream. Given that it’s likely to be 30 degrees or more, it’s a ludicrous tradition, but it’s completely non-negotiable: it wouldn’t be our Christmas without it.
What to Drink with Pud
The quest to find the ideal wine match for this grand old dessert has led to years of rigorous research, during which WineDown has selflessly sampled countless contenders.
But the sobering fact is that the jury’s still out: there are literally scores of fabulous matches, but which is THE ONE?
Conventional wisdom, when it comes to matching wines and desserts, is: “Always choose a wine that is sweeter than the dessert”.
Personally, instructions that start with ALWAYS always make me want to ignore them. However, with no desire to reinvent the wheel, WineDown happily accepts this wisdom as a starting point for exploration.
Matchmaking
When you think about the ‘complementary’ approach for food and wine matching (you know, like with like), fortifieds are a shoo in. They have all the structure and body to balance the robust textures of a good pud, while their sweet fruit and spices complement the flavours perfectly.
Imagine the nutty, treacly flavours of a classic Tawny; the concentrated muscatel, cloves and spice of a fortified Muscat; an indomitable Madeira, with its burnt sugar and orange peel profile; or a dark and intensely sweet Pedro Ximinez, with its raisin, sultana and prune flavours.
It’s Personal
Now this is where food and wine matching gets personal. Some folk prefer to savour these marvellous wines with cheeses, or as an alternative to dessert, rather than an accompaniment. And it just may be that the weight and richness of these beauties is a bridge too far at the end of a big meal on a hot summer’s day. So, let’s look at some lighter alternatives:
How ‘bout the honeyed apricot, ginger, citrus and spice of France’s famous Sauternes; the honey and stone-fruit of Ice Wine (Eiswein); Hungary’s sweet and unique Tokaji Aszú, with its ripe plum, caramel and almond flavours; or a gorgeous Aussie Botrytis Semillon with its fig, quince and zesty lime? Depending on how acute your sweet tooth is, any of these might be your perfect Pud match.
But there’s more than one way to skin a cat, and there’s another way to match food and wine: The ‘contrast’ method pitches opposing textures and flavours to achieve balance and harmony. And this throws some interesting contenders into the mix.
Opposites Attract
A chilled glass of Champagne is a great textural contrast for Christmas Pudding. The fizz opens the palate, while acids cut through the richness of the dessert. But don’t go for bone-dry austerity: choose a full-bodied Rosé Champagne - vinified by maceration on skins and packed with fruit flavour. Or, for a lighter alternative, Sparkling Moscato, with its crisp, fragrant, fruit forward flavours, and gentle effervescence could be your pudding bestie. Aromatic, fresh, and lower in alcohol, it’s a great choice for the Christmas marathon.
THE ONE
It’s a tough choice, and any of these wines could easily be THE ONE. But here’s the thing. When you’re surrounded by the people you love; when laughter is hearty and raucous; and when the conversation suddenly stops because a humble old pudding has made its entrance, the perfect wine is always the one that you have in your hand.