Aussie Icons – Part 2
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More Iconic Wines
When the Victa has rendered the afternoon air thick with the smell of two-stroke, and Dad’s face has turned cerise beneath his battered Akubra, it’s time to throw a sheet over the Hills Hoist, strip down to our Reg Grundies, and enjoy some shade while we wait for the Southerly Buster. With any luck, Mum’ll emerge with SAOs and Vegemite and a pot of Bushells (and a freezing cold bottle of Passiona for us!) to wash them down. I just hope she doesn’t trip over the Malvern Star on the back path again – we’ll get spifflicated!
Welcome to Aussie Icons, Part 2: Recognised, revered, reputable and rare treats - for grownups.
Saltram No 1 Shiraz
It would be fair to say that, when William Salter arrived on our shores in 1839, wine did not feature in his plans. He ran cattle, then sheep – and even turned his hand to mining when copper was discovered on his Barossa holding. It wasn’t until 1859 that William – in partnership with his 22-year-old son, Edward – cleared 10 acres at their Mamre Brook homestead and planted Shiraz. Within three years, there was a decent enough crop to harvest, and W. Salter & Son produced their first vintage. It was a wine born of courage, determination, and perseverance. With equal parts pith and prescience, they named their baby “No. 1 Shiraz”.
Best enjoyed 5 - 15 years after vintage, the No. 1 is an intensely aromatic, plush and full-bodied wine. Heritage Barossa vines impart rich and complex layers of flavour, while careful maturation in new and seasoned French oak ensures seamless integration and balance. Over the years, the No. 1 has received a slew of awards from major Australian wine shows, assuring its prominence as one of Australia’s most celebrated reds - and a truly iconic Barossa Shiraz.
Wynns Black Label
A quietly consistent, perennial achiever, Wynns Black Labels (there are two: a Cabernet and a Shiraz) have been the darlings of Australia’s auction houses for years. Their regional pedigree, their outstanding varietal characters, their cellaring potential, and - it must be said - their incredible value for money, make Wynns Black Labels among Australia’s most collected wines.
Shiraz from Coonawarra? Most emphatically, yes! Although Cabernet is regarded as the lynchpin variety of the region, Shiraz has a history in Coonawarra that dates back to the 1890s. Accordingly, the vines that produce this Shiraz are between 30 and 110 years old. Wynns Black Label Shiraz is a rich and complex cool-climate style, with abundant fruit flavours and sinuous, persistent tannins.
Its iconic compadre, the Black Label Cabernet Sauvignon, has been delighting Aussies since 1954. Produced from only the best 20 to 25% of Cabernet grown in Wynns’ (also iconic) terra rossa vineyards, the Black Label Cab has garnered a formidable reputation as a wine of style and stature. With lush and vibrant dark fruit flavours, fine structural tannins, and mid-to-long term cellaring potential, it’s small wonder that Wynns Black Label Cabernet Sauvignon finds its way into the cellars of so many avid collectors.
Penfolds Yattarna Chardonnay
In the early 1990s, the Penfolds winemaking team was issued a serious challenge: create an elite white wine that can hold its own alongside Grange. It would need to be an impeccable product - distinctive, unquestionably high-quality, and capable of at least a decade’s graceful maturing. The team set to work, in one of the most “comprehensive, focused and highly publicised wine development projects ever conducted in Australia”. In 1998, Penfolds released the ‘95 Penfolds Yattarna Chardonnay to a rapturous public and a media storm. Dubbed “White Grange”, it won all four categories for which it was eligible at the Sydney Wine Show (the first wine ever to do so) and set a new benchmark for ultra-fine Australian Chardonnay.
The name, Yattarna, comes from an indigenous word meaning ‘little by little… gradually’, and under the meticulous stewardship of the Penfolds winemakers, Yattarna has been permitted to slowly evolve. Selective sourcing of immaculate fruit from the finest cool-climate regions, and clever, patient winemaking are the hallmarks of its style. Today, Yattarna neither needs nor wants the references that link it to Grange. With its reputation well and truly established - and a Langton’s classification of “Outstanding” to boot - Yattarna is a true icon in its own right.
Dream Wines
The relentless pursuit of excellence in every aspect of their creation means that icon wines are necessarily expensive to produce. And the sad reality for many of us is that - unless we pull the Powerball soon - our collection of icon wines is likely to remain modest. But that’s OK! These are special wines, for special occasions. No-one needs to eat at Grossi Florentino EVERY night. But we can dream…