The Devil You Know…
Directions
The Devil You Know… But First, the Devil You Don’t
The south-western corner of WA is famously gorgeous. Its beaches need no introduction, but if you can tear your eyes away from the sparkling cerulean coastline, you’ll find a different kind of wonderful: Windswept coastal heath bursting with birdlife, gnarly woodlands latticed with freshwater streams and billabongs, and soaring Karri forests. The walking tracks of the Leeuwin–Naturaliste Ridge offer some spectacular scenery, and its weathered granite and limestone rocks are riddled with potholes and caves. But it isn’t only bushwalkers and speleologists who find it fascinating.
Old Devil
In the 1960s, geologists working along the Ridge stumbled upon a cave so rich with evidence of early life that they called in the archaeologists. For them, the cave was a revelation. (Not so much for the local Noongar people, who’d been stubbing their toes on its stalagmites for fifty thousand years, give or take.) The cave was teeming with stone artefacts, ornamental beads, cooking hearths, and animal bones. In particular, piles of bones of a creature that had been extinct on the mainland for 3,000 years. The Tassie Devil.
Shy Devil
Today, the Devil’s Lair Cave is regarded as one of the country’s most significant archaeological sites. But it isn’t one for the tourists. Under the watchful eye of Noongar custodians, only a select few have access. Among them, students of archaeology. Which is how, in the 1970s, a young Phil Sexton became acquainted with the Lair.
The experience clearly struck a chord. A handful of years later, the aspiring Indy Jones chucked in his battered fedora and purchased a tract of beautiful Margaret River dirt not far from the ancient cave. Guess what he called it?
Devil’s Lair
Supported by co-founder John Jens, and working closely with viticulturist Simon Robertson, Sexton established vineyards that would showcase the region’s standout varieties: Chardonnay and Cabernet. (These varieties remain the mainstay of the portfolio - although happily they’ve also made space for a few other embellishments, like the time-honoured Margs blend of Sauv Blanc/ Sem.) The ancient soils of this lovely region command respect, and the Devil’s Lair team treads lightly upon them. For every hectare of vineyard planted, more than a hectare of natural vegetation is re-planted or retained; while to keep grasses down, the neighbour’s sheep and llamas are periodically invited in.
Handsome Devil
Sexton and Jens moved on to other projects many years ago, but Simon Robertson continues to tend the vines (while ducking llamas) to this day. It’s not just a significant work-life achievement – there’s a palpable sense of continuity with the original vision, thanks to the detail of his management practices. In 2011, the lure of Margaret River Cabernet Sauvignon drew Hunter Valley wunderkind Ben Miller across the continent to WA. Today, as head winemaker, he relishes crafting the powerful, elegant Cabernets and rich, heady Chardonnays that made Devil’s Lair famous. (Although these days - with the wisdom that comes from heeding the lessons of the land – the ripe and silky Devil’s Lair Cabernet is increasingly sourced from warmer Wilyabrup in the north of the region).
The Devil Turns Thirty
With five distinct ranges in the portfolio (Honeybomb; The Hidden Cave; Dance with the Devil; Margaret River; and the stunning limited release 9th Chamber), there’s no doubt that Devil’s Lair these days is all growed up. In fact, this year marks the thirtieth anniversary of its first vintage. The team celebrated the event but with a rare triple-trophy pickup at the Perth Royal Wine Show for its 2018 Margaret River Cabernet Sauvignon. Extraordinary? Nah. It’s a perfectly reasonable accolade for a wine 50,000 years in the making.