Meet the Makers – Matt Woo, Penfolds – PART 1

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Esteemed member of the Penfolds winemaking team, Matt Woo, sits down with WineDown to talk about life as a winemaker. His father’s cellar ignited his passion and appreciation for fine wines, which would lead him to an incredible career crafting some of Australia’s most prestigious wines. Matt holds the unique position of crafting Penfolds red table wines,fortifieds wines and spirits, which date back to the beginning of Penfolds winemaking story. He speaks candidly and humbly about his achievements, passions and everything in between.

WD: Matt, thanks for joining us. Raised in country New South Wales, would it be fair to say you are a country boy at heart?

Matt Woo: Yes, for sure! Growing up in a rural community imparts upon you. My family were not from the land, however they were a big part of the community. They owned the local grocery store, a menswear store, a fish and chip shop and a restaurant at various stages.

I grew up in Coonabarabran, which is famous for being the ‘Astronomy Capital of the Southern Hemisphere’ due to its high proportion of clear night skies.

WD: We understand that your father is an avid wine collector with a penchant for Penfolds. Are you able to share some of your fondest memories?

Matt Woo: That is true. Two things, in particular, come to mind. The first is special tissue-wrapped bottles in wooden cases tucked away for special keeping. Mostly Grange and Bin 707, but also some bottles of Wynn’s Michael. The other is the dinner parties my parents hosted; Grandfather Tawny would come out as a special treat after dinner.

WD: Do you believe those moments fuelled your appreciation for fine wine?

Matt Woo: I learnt that special wines were meant to be revered and savoured. As I grew up and started tasting wines, combined with a love of cooking, I began understanding complementary flavours and how to balance them.

WD: Do you remember your palate’s first encounter with wine, and what were your thoughts?

Matt Woo: I’m pretty sure it was taking my first sip of Penfolds Grandfather Tawny . I remember thinking, wow, it tastes sweet and smells old!

WD: Did you always aspire to become a winemaker?

Matt Woo: No. I entered the wine industry as a laboratory technician at Rosemount Estate, Denman, New South Wales in 2002. I quickly got caught up in the buzz of vintage and decided to stay. After a few years, I was welcomed into the winemaking team and have never regretted the decision.

WD: What led you into winemaking – was there an aha moment?

Matt Woo: When I was at Denman, Matt Johnson (now Chief Winemaker for TWE America) took me under his wing. Matt introduced me to different styles of wine both inside and outside of our work environment. Along with other fermented beverages such as Indian Pale Ales. It opened my eyes to a new world of flavour.

Working in the lab was fine at the time, but I saw how much fun the winemakers had.

WD: Did your career begin in fortifieds and spirits, or did you start in table wines first?

Matt Woo: I have been lucky enough to work for over ten years, making dry red table wines and fortified wines. Each style of winemaking is complimentary to the other. Red winemaking teaches precision in harvest decisions, careful extraction and managing fermentation on skins.

Fortified winemaking teaches you a lot about blending to achieve House Style, the effects of different barrels on maturation, and the interplay between acid, tannin and alcohol to achieve balance.

WD: In your 12-year tenure with Penfolds, what is the number one achievement you are proudest of?

Matt Woo: If I had to name one, it would be working alongside James Godfrey to create Penfolds 50 Year Old Rare Tawny. The opportunity to take some very special individual vintage parcels (including 1915, 1940, 1945, 1965, 1971) and blend them into a solera system to ensure they live forever in a blend rather than bottling them individually.

Next week:
Matt enlightens us on why age isn’t everything, the art of blending tradition and innovation and Penfolds signature fortified wine style.