When New Zealand burst onto the world stage in the 1980s with its uniquely-styled, tropical fruit flavoured Sauvignon Blanc, it seemed like an overnight success. In fact, dedicated kiwi winemakers had been chipping away since the 1800s…
Anglican missionaries started the ball rolling in 1819, planting in the Bay of Islands area north of Auckland; and grapevines were a common inclusion in the gardens of early colonists. When James ‘Father of Australian Wine’ Busby celebrated the signing of the Treaty of Waitangi in 1840, he did so with a nice glass of local white. (Having begot the wine industry in Oz in 1832, James popped across to Enzed to lend a hand).
But it’s fair to say that early winemakers were up against it – and not just because of the spectacularly challenging climate: Animal agriculture was the order of the day (sheep, folks - millions of ‘em!), so pastoralists had first dibs on quality farming land; while a powerful temperance lobby kept demand low. Even so, dedicated growers and winemakers continued to plug away.
There was reason to be optimistic in the 1950s and ‘60s as the influence of the prohibitionists waned, and licensing laws were relaxed. Then, in the early 1970s, something started to give…
In the peaceful backblocks of north-west Auckland, winemaking brothers Bill and Ross Spence had been experimenting. Dissatisfied with the light, fruity Müller-Thurgau wines that dominated, the boys had scoured the country looking for something new and different to make. They ‘obtained’ some interesting looking vines and decided to give them a crack at their Matua Rd vineyard. The first crop was disappointingly small but excitingly delicious - and full of possibility. They persisted, and by 1974 had managed to produce enough fruit to make 400 bottles, which they labelled Matua - meaning leader in te reo Māori. It was New Zealand’s first ever commercial bottling of Sauvignon Blanc. BOOM!
The whole world is head over heels in love with New Zealand’s Sauv Blanc… and its rich and intense Pinot Noir, elegant Syrah, aromatic Pinot Gris and gorgeous Rosés. Wineries have mushroomed; new regions have been discovered and developed, from sub-tropical Northland on the North Island, to Central Otago – home of the world’s most southerly vineyards.
Matua - based these days in Savvy Central (Marlborough) - rightly enjoys its elder statesman reputation, and continues to produce an extended range of classic, regionally expressive wines. Meanwhile, newcomers - like Squealing Pig - display the same kind of audacious ingenuity of their predecessors. Their cheeky range of wines is like a glorious Sample Bag for grown-ups – with a very Kiwi twist: Spritzed Rosé in a can… perfect for the chilly bin! Gin with a splodge of wine?! That’s choice, bro.
Our friends over the ditch are lucky to have perfect terroir for sexy Sauvignon Blanc, racy Riesling plus Pinot Noir, Syrah, Chardonnay and Pinot Gris.