Wine and food, rules and exceptions

There are many ‘rules’ that people will try and throw your way when the topic of food and wine matching comes up in conversation. White wine with white fish, red wine with red meat; by now you’ve heard it all before. 

With these rules, however, there are also exceptions. This is understandable given that ‘white wine’ is an incredibly diverse category. As too is white fish, red wine, and red meat. It would be unwise to tie yourself to closely to these sweeping statements. After all no one, not even Barossa Shiraz, likes to be painted too broadly with the same brush.

So how does one navigate the complex world of food and wine matching? 

Through a few home trials? Sure, but it may take a few wrong turns before you start down the right track. Through seeking out the wisdom of winemakers and chefs? Maybe this is a good place to start.

From those in the know

To help us answer the questions of what to drink with your food and what to eat with your wine, we have enlisted two wine and food experts; Richard Mattner, Chief Winemaker for Pepperjack Wines, and Scott Liddell, Head Chef at Salters Kitchen in the Barossa. 

For Richard, pairing wine and food is a much easier affair when you start with the latter.

“I try to work out what we feel like eating before checking the wine list or home cellar. Once we’ve landed on decision, I’ll look at the flavours of the meal and try to marry them to flavours in the available wines. Ultimately, we’re looking to enhance the meal, not make the wine compete.”

One example that Richard thinks is as tried and tested as the saying ‘tried and tested’, is when roast lamb and vegetables come on the menu.

“Here, I immediately look for a Cabernet Sauvignon or Cabernet based blend,” Richard said. “Particularly I might look for a Cabernet from a warmer climate; like the Barossa Valley or Langhorne Creek. I’m of course quite partial to the Pepperjack style and I think that the plush blackberry characters of the wine play really well with the gamey lamb flavours. The generous tannins also help balance the rich, fattiness that we love so much.”

While most people immediately think of red wine when serving up roast lamb, Richard says that more people should consider what’s in their fridge. 

“More people should try a white wine with their hearty red meat dish. Sometimes it works wonderfully, but sometimes it’s completely wrong. It’s a tougher job for sure, but when done well is a highly enjoyable experience. Look of something with enough acidity to balance the fattiness and enough weight to stand up with the gamey-ness. With its crisp acidity but phenolic texture, a bottle of Saltram Winemaker’s Selection Fiano would work well. Or head out west and indulge with a Devil’s Lair Margaret River Chardonnay.”

Richard’s cheffing compatriot, Scott Liddell, has a different approach to the pairing game.

“I really enjoy trying to build a meal around a particular wine, especially when the bottle is one that you’re excited to open. It’s a bit of a classic but Pinot Gris served alongside a soft cheese with a funky edge is pure bliss. The rich palate weight of the wine is matched by a fullness of flavour from the cheese, and the lean acidity has a more pronounced impact when it comes into contact with the gooey texture. We paired our Coldstream Hills Tasmania Pinot Gris with a baked Camembert that was drizzled with olive oil and stuffed with rosemary and garlic – delish!

“Alternatively, we could have gone down a different track, as we have done in the past. Instead of staying in its home territory of France, Pinot Gris works wonders when taken over to Asian dishes. It’s the perfect wine for your next dumpling night out and works really well up against chilli spice. 

A most delicious classroom

While slightly different in their approach, both Richard and Scott agree that the more you know about the wine and the food, the better placed you’ll be to find the perfect pair. They also acknowledge that having a deep understanding of how flavours interact will also take you a long way. But how does one gain access to this knowledge? They both laughed when asked and responded the same way – “trial and error”. They also said you could just “Google it”, but where’s the fun in that!