Meet the Makers – Matt Woo, Penfolds – PART 2

Meet the Makers – Matt Woo, Penfolds – PART 2

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Welcome to the second instalment of our discussion with Penfolds Winemaker Matt Woo (you can catch up on Part 1 here).

The story continues…

WD: How have your mentors impacted your career as a winemaker?

Matt Woo: Firstly, former Penfolds Senior Winemaker Steve Lienert’s calm, practical and logical approach to both winemaking and running a team was quite valuable. It was important for instilling confidence in my winemaking.

The other is James Godfrey, who is very generous with his knowledge and is a great teacher. I have learned a lot about blending wines from James. He told me the first week we worked together, “Age isn’t everything”. Meaning: just because something is old doesn’t make it automatically good, and don’t dismiss something young. This applies to parcels of wine, barrels, vineyards – and maybe even people!

WD: As a Penfolds winemaker, how do you see the coming together of tradition and innovation?

Matt Woo: Tradition is being respectful to history and the hard work of others to create that history. From a winemaking perspective, it’s being respectful of House Style.

Innovation has several parts for me. It’s to craft existing wines to be more refined while honouring Penfolds House Style. Tweak existing methodology to adapt to changing conditions (vintage variables) to express House Style. Naturally, the other part is innovation for something ‘new’ – varieties, regions, winemaking techniques and packaging – there are lots!

WD: What does a typical day as a Penfolds Winemaker look like?

Matt Woo: No day is ever really the same, nor is there a typical week; our work focus shifts with the seasons. One day could be spent in the tasting room putting a blend together through an exhaustive series of trial and error. The next day we could be hosting an event for consumers or VIP visitors. Another day could be spending time with the brand team on strategy, and we spend lots of time planning work in the winery.

During the vintage season, we are highly focused on the winemaking process. Vineyard grape assessment, harvest decisions and managing fermentation are the key points for me.

WD: How would you describe Penfolds signature style as it relates to fortified wine?

Matt Woo: It comes down to 5 parts.

  1. Vineyard selection: Less tannin and structure, with a fresher and juicer style of fruit.

  2. Varietal selections: Mataro and shiraz are the backbones. Mataro is spicy and savoury and takes on aged characters quickly. Shiraz adds weight, depth, and richness. Select parcels of cabernet sauvignon and grenache add perfume and layers of complexity.

  3. Handling: Careful attention to working ferments on skins and ensuring balanced extraction. Timing of pressing and timing of fortification.

  4. Spirit: Defined Penfolds house spirit that marries and integrates with the fruit flavours. Additional alcohol adds weight and richness to the wines.

  5. Maturation / Blending: Maturing in old small barrels (mainly hogsheads) 30 to 80 years old. Blending by careful selection of parcels to create House Style. Selection could be across varieties and vintages.

WD: Having lived in various parts of Australia, are you happy to call the Barossa home?

Matt Woo: South Australia is definitely home to me. We have beaches, rivers, hills, fantastic produce and amazing wine - a vibrant city. Sadly though, average football teams!

The Barossa and the greater Adelaide region are wonderfully diverse. Food and wine culture are strong, with all regions proudly championing what they do well. Away from wine and food, you will find me riding my Harley Davidson with a group of friends. The Adelaide Hills and Fleurieu Peninsula being favourite haunts.

What’s clear when speaking with Matt Woo is that his passion for winemaking runs deep, and his spirit of ingenuity soars high. His vast knowledge was expressed with candour in a down-to-earth manner with a genuine desire to share his love of wine. For a winemaker who holds such an esteemed position within one of Australia’s most revered wineries, Matt was as approachable as WineDown’s favourite Penfolds brandy!